Stories
Kenmark
Laura Howard
Words editorial staff
28/08/2024
Chief designer of Kenmark and since 2012 in the company, Laura creates her own style starting from the desires, the passions and the behaviors of the people
What inspires you and how can you keep the differences in style among the brands in Kenmark portfolio?
I’m inspired by the wearer, first and foremost. Things like art and nature can ultimately serve as color or detail inspiration, but the wearer is my first thought. How do they want to feel? What do they want to look like? How do they want to portray themselves to the world? Those bigger questions help to define the overall direction I take with each collection. The DNA of each brand is so intrinsically different, so they sort of keep themselves separated, which is helpful! I love getting to step inside each collection to search for different ways to express their own individual design languages. In the process of creation the very start of a new collection is my favorite part. I like to start by looking at the world as a whole, not just our industry. As references in eyewear I’ve loved to watch the growth of independent brands like Jacques Marie Mage and Lapima. Their frames are so beautifully designed and the play on proportion and balance is executed perfectly.
How do you work with your team of designers?
We have an incredible team of designers at Kenmark and it has always served us well to give each person complete control of the collections they design. Everyone has their own unique design viewpoints and they are paired with brands that are the best match for their sensibilities. For collections that I do not directly design myself, I try to provide guidance throughout the design process, give insights about certain edits that could be made, or propose new overall themes for the collections. In turn, I get invaluable feedback from the other designers as well, so we all make each other better at the end of the day.
Valdo is a pivotal brand for Kenmark: what are the main features of this brand you want to point out?
We have luxury segments in some of our other brands, but this collection is fully owned by us, so we’re exceptionally proud of it. Valdo is a collection of luxury frames that are meant to be lived in and we expect each style to have a very long life. The shapes are timeless and will lend themselves to the wearer’s life and wardrobe in countless ways. We’ve added special details to almost every surface - however, it’s not overdone. The little things matter to us, so each connection and each detail is perfectly thought through so that each frame is one cohesive object and not a collection of parts.
How free are you to create a new collection for a licensed brand like Vera Wang?
We work with brands that we love and we view licensing as a partnership. If we sign a license, the whole purpose is to create a collection in their style. Otherwise, what would be the point? As the experts, so-to-speak, we are given a bit of leeway with our licenses in terms of how each segment will function and who it will serve, but the design of the frames is a true collaboration with the brand. Working with Vera Wang on her collection is such an honor. Her decades in the fashion industry and her natural ability to elevate everything she touches are both inspiring and motivating. Sentimentally, my first collection with Vera Wang in 2015 made me very proud. Finally holding the actual frames in my hands after months of intense design work was so rewarding. And then seeing them on the runway during NYFW that year was super special.
How do you create and develop your own fashion style in Louisville, Kentucky?
Being physically removed from the main centers of fashion, you aren’t as immersed with it on a daily basis. And, in a way, I think it helps that I don’t see big brand logos everywhere I go. It makes you look inward to create your own style. You also have to be a sponge for everything around you. Louisville is an incredible city full of creative people and artists, so connecting with them is really inspiring. I am also very fortunate that traveling is part of my job. Just to sit and people-watch in a new city is one of my favorite things. You see things you would never see at home, but also it makes the rest of the world feel more accessible and not so distant.
What will be the main news in the collections of FW 24?
I think we’ll see much in terms of new textures and dimension in frames. We’ve already been seeing a good amount of creative beveling in acetate, but I think we’ll start to see even more texture created by pressing intricate designs in moulds, 3D-printed metals, and other unconventional materials.
What are the main differences between American and European customers?
I think the stereotype is that Americans are much more conservative in their styling. And to an extent, that can be very true. One of the key ways I can tell if someone is an American while traveling is by looking at their frames! However, I’m finding that more and more Americans are embracing the idea of using eyewear as a statement accessory instead of just a device with which to see. As a way to try something new, they will sometimes buy a basic frame for everyday and then a second frame that is a bit more unconventional.
What are the best aspects in working in Kenmark?
Working at Kenmark is really special. There is no limit to how one can shape their roles here. I started as a graphic designer and within a few years, I was given the chance to draw a few frames for Vera Wang. She ended up liking them and I started the transition to become an eyewear designer. The ability to play into your strengths, even if you were hired to do something else, allows for countless growth opportunities.