It's time to be daring
Words Alessandra Albarello
Strong, tactile, individual, brave. Glasses with variable and imperfect geometries that affirm their presence on the face thanks to disharmonious harmonies.
Glasses are daring to be different thanks to decisive lines that follow new trajectories which are at times exaggerated by angles and even corners. As in the case of a model created by Yohji Yamamoto from the SOÏ Groupe. Made of acetate, with a front enlivened by horizontal and minimalist engravings, it has a square and pure shape, with clean cuts and considerable thicknesses. It looks like a sculpture and forms part of the new collection that features 33 pairs of glasses (20 prescription glasses and 13 sunglasses), inspired by the aesthetic universe of Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto; each pair is characterised by virtuosity, facets, workmanship, markings and particular details.
The Gys Flower model from Genny by Jet Set, made of acetate with nuanced nylon lenses, has a square shape that is both essential and absolute. The large temples, redesigned with a golden profile, are embellished with an iconic orchid, a symbol of the maison that is found in many of its collections. In this way, the historic Italian brand, whose artistic director is the entrepreneur Sara Cavazza Facchini, is reinforcing its identity through an haut de gamme collection that proposes a discreet yet never eccentric luxury that follows in the wake of tradition.
Marni, however, another leader in fashion will never give up on originality and has softened the edges of its pentagonal, acetate Laughing Waters model (the name alone brings joy and inspires positivity) created by Retrosuperfuture, overlapping a number of trends in a single pair of sunglasses: the frame's white colour and coloured lenses are the season's two must-haves looks. This intriguing interplay of lines and geometric shapes also draws comparisons to the creations of the past.
Danielle Rattray, Jean model
Linda Farrow, Bora model
The Attico, Ibiza model
Yohji Yamamoto, sunglasses
Genny, Gys Flower model
Indeed, the Jean model by Danielle Rattray, an independent Scottish designer from the world of graphics and fashion, relies on vintage reminiscences that have been updated with a contemporary design, and by focusing on absolute quality, she is also creating a fashion line dedicated to strong and independent women who nevertheless love understated fashion. Made of 8.0 mm thick acetate, the Jean sunglasses are available in saturated shades like shiny red and black or crystal green; colours that emphasise the glasses' lens and frame profile, while also highlighting the material's characteristics.
However, often the value and charm of objects arises precisely because their different elements contrast. As in the Bora model by Linda Farrow, where perfectly round, shaded tone-on-tone lenses have been inserted into a thin and wide hexagonal frame made of grey tortoiseshell acetate that recalls the look of marble. The decidedly oversized Ibiza design, on the other hand, belongs to The Attico, an Italian brand born from the love its creators Gilda Ambrosio and Giorgia Tordini share for "glamour and sparkle". The two different yet complementary personalities are united by a vision they call "Modern vintage". To translate this special vision into glasses, they have collaborated with Linda Farrow. Ibiza, made of acetate and featuring shaped lenses, is a playful creation that skilfully oscillates been empty and full, corners and roundness, asserting its personality with boldness, without compromise, while at the same time hinting at a spirit of lightness and freedom. Speaking of an emotive place, elsewhere in time and space, thanks also to a particular chromatic choice: electric blue, lilac and turtle shell. For brave spirits. For volitive women. But raise your hand if you have never thought of being daring. At least once. At least a little. Especially here and now.
Photo above: Marni, Laughing Waters model
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