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Trends

Nude


Non-colour colours

Words Alessandra Albarello

02/02/2022

The authenticity, delicacy and strength of non-colour colours that blend in with the skin. Setting free a simple and unique gaze.

At the beginning it was Andy Warhol, with his transparent frames, who gave his completely naked, amazed and curious gaze to the history of contemporary art. An accessory so neutral that one would never have expected to find on the face of the father of Pop art. In reality, material has always aspired to become immaterial, trying to blend in with the skin, fitting perfectly to the body until it becomes an almost invisible layer, to present ambiguous and sensual messages. Another skin, another look.

Often, aesthetic research was also accompanied by a technological challenge that favoured a sort of osmosis, by overcoming the limits of the material. Far from being minimalist, the new glasses therefore tell stories that are directly connected to emotions and a different way of living, of looking. Of being authentic and natural thanks to non-colour colours. And above all they express the desire not to hide anymore, to manifest their own, intimate essence.

Freeing the gaze. Christian Roth dismisses this trend in models that, at times, speak a strong and angular language, as with the Droner frame (in the opening photo), a manifesto of a decisive and inclusive style. At other times he explores an exclusively feminine lexicon by coming back to vintage shapes, such as the cat-eye. The common thread is a chromatic colour scheme that ranges from the faintest tones to the boldest, without forgetting the sensory aspect, the touch, with satin or glossy finishes that soften or enhance the sculpted lines.

In addition to colours, it is light that becomes a fundamental element for Kuboraum in the construction of glasses, interacting in a spectacular way in the T6 Mask, which is part of the new 10th Anniversary collection of the Berlin company. Reinterpreting the technique used during the Romanesque and Early Gothic periods to create the stained glass windows of the churches, Kuboraum has in fact created mosaic-like lenses of different shades inserted in an oversized frame, thus encouraging sophisticated and delicate plays of light. 

Moscot, mod. Frayda

Moscot, mod. Frayda

Mykita, mod. Saima

Mykita, mod. Saima

Oliver Goldsmith, mod. Kari

Oliver Goldsmith, mod. Kari

Cutler and Gross

Oliver Goldsmith, mod. Ego

On the other hand a different light, pink, similar to the romantic hue at dawn, passes through the Frayda model by Moscot, dedicated to the intriguing gaze of Beverly, Joel Moscot's sister, third generation of the family that owns the New York brand, currently in its fifth generation. Thanks to a skilful workmanship, the thin and opalescent frame becomes transparent on the nose, continuing smoothly into the pink lenses.

Another iconic brand, Oliver Goldsmith, tackles this theme by entrusting it to intersections and geometric virtuosity in a model that, with the name alone, promises to be unique. It is called Ego and, although it was designed in 1971, it is still very current, thanks to the original 70s allure, revived by the various developments and redevelopments of fashion, and to the whimsical and elaborate shape that certainly does not go unnoticed.

The Kari model, too, always embodies the spirit of those years. Apparently more classic but with that extra twist, typical of the Brit style, the glasses by Cutler & Gross which, in the sunglasses collection, sometimes focus on a studied combination between the neutral colour of the frame and the lenses in darker shades, or a fading blue, creating a play of reflections and contrasts.

The lenses of the Saima sunglasses by Mykita from the Lite line, on the other hand, tend to be purple, celebrating absolute lightness with a mix of very thin acetate, stainless steel arms and titanium details. A lightness inversely proportional to the width of the models and which extends to the optical frames. But even when it uses only lightweight stainless steel, as in the Delano optical frame of the Decades line dedicated to iconic models, Mykita picks up the skin tone with Greige, almost comparable to make-up... It is certainly no coincidence that this hybrid colour, which has been part of the Pantone portfolio for several decades, is used across the board by famous stylists, designers and architects. Remaining the gold standard for fashion. Despite the name...

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