Between the sky and the sea
Words Alessandra Albarello
Blue, a colour that perfectly expresses the moods of body and soul without ever being dull. Looking at art, sport, vintage and underground cultures, glasses continually probe its depths
Spirituality. Depth. Calm. Despite the name being so short, essential and immediately understandable in all languages, blue has always been a colour that lends itself to various interpretations and transmits different messages and moods. Even complex ones. So much so that Yves Klein made it the centre of his art, even patenting a new version and calling it IKB (International Klein Blue), while blue even underlined a particularly melancholy creative period of Picasso's... And this is just to mention a few examples. The colour of the sky. The colour of the sea. Blue, in its various shades, nuances and intensities, therefore becomes an evocation of immeasurable and mysterious spaces belonging to both external and natural landscapes, as well as interior and spiritual ones.
It is a colour for meditation and reflection, in fashion it often represents the alternative to black for that special light that emanates from it and that makes it less dense and informal than absolute black. It is never dull. Even in glasses, it often becomes the main character. And so, for Retrosuperfuture, it turns into a new interpretation of Zed (in the opening photo), a liquid mask, almost immaterial, that surely recalls holidays, sunny beaches and the seabed, with a unique green and mirrored lens that protrudes, "overflowing" from the edges of the acetate front with an aquarium effect. Balenciaga also opts for a sports-inspired, distinctive and enveloping mask, achieving it in the exclusive semi-rimless BB0232S Wire Cat sunglasses model, held to the ears with bio-plastic tipped wires that retract inside the frame.
Balenciaga, mod. BB0232S Wire Cat
Loewe, mod. LW40098I
23° Eyewear, mod. Aviator Two
Nobika, mod. Gaia
Calvin Klein Jeans, mod. CJK22639S
Marni, mod. Ulawun Vulcano
Another luxury brand, Loewe, instead takes up the theme of surrealism, imagined with irony and fun for the A/W 2022 fashion shows by the visionary creative director Jonathan Anderson. To be combined with the Puffer Flamenco and Goya bags, the inflated frame LW40098I, with an oversized square shape, thus offers unusual puffed-up volumes. It is instead the reinterpretation of the classic aviator shape that characterises the Aviator Two model in M49 Mazzucchelli bioacetate that is part of the 23° Eyewear collection, born from the collaboration between Mirage and Studio Russo. The symbol of the brand, a globe inclined at 23° (hence the name) just like the Earth axis, to also visually express the philosophy of the project based on eco-thinking, in deep harmony with the environment and the planet.
A dark blue front, but surrounded by a thin, embossed burgundy line and combined with orange lenses, defines the vintage spirit and contemporary attitude of the unisex Ulawun Vulcano sunglasses by Marni. Made of acetate and with large temples, it is made exclusively by Retrosuperfuture for the fashion brand. Sometimes, to make the difference and make some glasses unique, it's also the details that can immediately focus and capture the attention. Just one is enough. For Nobika, for example, it is a real piercing applied on the lash with a small Swarovski crystal set in the centre. It's a detail that gives a strong non-conformist personality to the Gaia optical frame, designed in Italy and made in Japan with Japanese acetate of the highest quality, like the entire collection. In fact, even in the name chosen, Nobika, the brand nods to the fortunate synergy established with the Land of the Rising Sun.
From the transparencies and pure lines of Gaia, we then move on to another interpretation of this colour. Electric blue glossy acetate, black temples with contrasting embossed logo for the energetic, fresh, young and aggressive CKJ22639S sunglasses from the Calvin Klein Jeans line. A name that, ironically, brings us back to the famous artist, Yves Klein, and his creative project, which we talked about right at the beginning...
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