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Dark side


Inspiration from black

Words Alessandra Albarello

27/03/2024

A fashion show entirely dedicated to black, including glasses, becomes the pretext to return to making considerations on the value and the many facets of this colour. Free and versatile.

We already knew that black could have infinite nuances and interpretations in art, also thanks to artists such as Pierre Soulages, Mark Rothko or Alberto Burri, but with Valentino's Le Noir collection it was perhaps the first time we witnessed a fashion show dedicated solely to this colour. A colour that absorbs light, transforming itself: almost philosophical, empathetic, reassuring, the sum of all colours. Impenetrable and yet clear, transparent, and eclectic, it allows itself to be combined freely with materials, textures and shapes, changing our perception every time. It allows itself be explored and sculpted.

Minimal and lightweight, with very thin profiles in Japanese titanium, the cat-eye Valentino Eyewear VLogo Sign sunglasses, worn at the Pierpaolo Piccioli fashion show and recognisable by the logo on the temple, thus becomes the emblem of a contemporary language, conveying a precise message of a strong and decisive, but also delicate, femininity. Elegant and informal at the same time. It will be available from the end of June exclusively in Valentino boutiques and on the maison's website. Black is also the absolute protagonist of the Calthorpe model of the Black Series by Linda Farrow (in the opening photo), a men's line composed of four minimal models, which arose from the awareness of the indissoluble bond that unites the world of menswear with the concept of luxury, and inspired by a key character of the English brand: Simon Jablon, Creative Director and CEO.

On the other hand, it is an opaque black, moved by different thicknesses that make the three-dimensional rims – the black of the Vava model – that adds a bright and decidedly industrial touch to the sunglasses model with the detail of the bridge and part of the temples made of aluminium. Still on the subject of aesthetic virtuosity, with the Marvel model Veronica Wildgruber successfully continues the discourse of the Suspense Collection, creating the illusion of an intertwining of lines and suspended geometric shapes, thus giving rise to a complex, but at the same time pure, rigorous and architectural, construction. Sometimes it is the choice of brave shapes, unusual effects and the modulation of significant thicknesses that enhance a colour and make the difference, as is the case for the GCDS model GD0043 in acetate, characterised by an original asymmetrical and wraparound profile that recalls the design of the 80s, and is therefore perfectly consistent with the clothing and accessories brand's bold style, of which the line of glasses, made by Marcolin, is an emanation.

Black is certainly also a colour that allows for extreme creative freedom, because in the collective imagination it always remains classic, simple and timeless, whatever its expression. This allows us to dare to experiment with unusual shapes, clear lines or fluid and irregular profiles, as is the case of the Jeenius women's frame by Junk, which is wide and rectangular. Or to make a chromatic transgression by combining it with a contrasting colour such as purple, which magically lights up the windsor rings of the Minto model of You Mawo. A panto shape, dark lenses and a name that is inspired by Minto Reef, a remote reef in Micronesia, to create a decidedly carefree atmosphere, for holidays and for summer. Why did anyone ever say that black was sad?    

Junk, Jeenius model

Junk, Jeenius model

GCDS, mod. GD0043

GCDS, mod. GD0043

Vava, sunglasses

Vava, sunglasses

Valentino Eyewear, VLogo Sign model

Valentino Eyewear, VLogo Sign model

Veronica Wildgruber, Marvel model

Veronica Wildgruber, Marvel model

You Mawo, Minto model

You Mawo, Minto model

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