Trends
Freedom
Over the rainbow
Words Alessandra Albarello
05/07/2023
Five CFDA independent eyewear designers, among the most famous in the world, come together to reiterate that freedom is a right that must always be defended. It is a message that comes through loud and clear through their vision. Which is a free one, of course.
Not everyone is admitted to the CFDA (The Council of Fashion Designers of America), especially for those involved in eyewear. The very first was Christian Roth Eyewear (a brand that is now part of the Dita Group), closely followed by many others. And it is certainly not the case that just anyone is able to create synergies to achieve solidarity objectives. And yet again, this year, five CFDA independent eyewear designers, among the most acclaimed in the world, have succeeded by joining together to participate in the "edCFDA Pride Eyewear Initiative", a charitable venture organised by the CFDA to target and highlight specific needs within the broad spectrum of the LGBTQIA+ and gender non-conforming community. Because, as Gai Gherardi of l.a.Eyeworks says: "Vision and visibility must walk hand in hand to be freeing". The recipient of a portion of the proceeds from these limited edition collections will be the TransLatin@ Coalition. The strength and courage of being together to launch a social message are also expressed through the choices of colours, of that rainbow that is a symbol of freedom and inclusion.
And it is precisely the rainbow that crosses the flash mirror lenses of Armer's luminous model for Christian Roth Eyewear (in the opening photo), with a large teardrop shape in crystal acetate. The unmistakable style of those who have created glasses loved and worn by true legends, such as Kurt Cobain and Lenny Kravitz, also reverberates in this model. Another reference designer in the world of eyewear is definitely Blake Kuwahara who, after collaborating with important international brands, in 2015 created his eponymous eyewear collection according to his "frame-within-a-frame" concept by using a proprietary lamination process. His proposal is a version of the Randolph model, with classic lines but with an unusual three-dimensional and iridescent effect.
Who, then, does not know the irreverent style of l.a.Eyeworks? The ideal ambassador of the line co-created in Los Angeles with Barbara McReynolds is certainly Gai Gherardi, recognisable everywhere for her original, eccentric and unique outfits, created especially for her. Just as the l.a.Eyeworks glasses are recognisable everywhere for the "joie de vivre" that they convey through shapes, details and colours, in a balance between art, poetry and dreams, often conveying important social messages. And perhaps not everyone knows that l.a.Eyeworks has also created enormous glasses for the Statue of Liberty in New York… The Tutto Bene model also reflects this optimistic and transgressive spirit in its name (it is no coincidence that the brand's slogan is "Uncensored Vision") with a geometric frame in transparent acetate crossed by the colours of the rainbow, temples with a metal core and round tips.
Instead, there are two models proposed by Krewe Eyewear, founded in 2013 by Stirling Barrett, influenced above all by the architecture and music of his city, New Orleans, in the creation of an eclectic and authentic style, which shuns the concept of worldliness and mere appearance. It is a philosophy that also extends to flagship stores, where special spaces and atmospheres are recreated that introduce real experiences and social exchanges. Not only that, Krewe Eyewear also offers a virtuous after-sales repair service for your glasses, giving them a second chance and thus encouraging responsible consumption. In the special multicoloured "Amore" version, a decomposed rainbow transforms the Conti model, in acetate with a thin 18k gold-plated metal bridge, and the STLII model, also in acetate with 24k gold-plated metal details, inspired by the historic cast-iron balconies in New Orleans' French quarter.
The message of Selima Optique, who participated in the initiative with the model Onassis x Pedro Silva, is also a determined one. This New York artist also created the lens cleansing cloth exclusively for the CFDA. A particular favourite of the fashion world, Selima Salaun started Selima Optique in SoHo in 1996 and now boasts four stores in New York City and two in Paris. Onassis x Pedro Silva is a large, wraparound black and white model obviously inspired by the glasses worn by the legendary Greek owner Aristotle Onassis, with a red heart that stands out inside the temple. Love: the message is clear. Is there any need to add more?