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In the sky


Real and imaginary journeys

Words Alessandra Albarello

29/03/2023

The timeless aviator model is continually reinterpreted, including by fashion designers, while always remaining recognisable. For real and imaginary journeys.

A metaphor for lightness and a look elsewhere, the verb “to fly” assumes and encapsulates different meanings, sometimes dissolving the distance between reality and fantasy. An example of this is Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, who during his life simultaneously cultivated his twin passions as a pilot and writer, setting “The Little Prince” – written in 1943 but still so contemporary – on an imaginary planet. Over time the fascination of flight, of exploring a mysterious and unknown space, has generated real myths. These have then been taken as an example by entire generations – such as Amelia Earhart, whose iconic and modern style has become a source of inspiration for designers and directors. And, speaking of style, one of the quintessential emblems of these daring exploits has unquestionably always been the teardrop-shaped glasses with a double bridge, initially worn only by pilots. The first transposition from one context to another, from the high altitudes of flight paths to metropolitan pavements, was undoubtedly Ray-Ban in the 1930s with its timeless Aviator model.

Now a classic, this shape is constantly reinterpreted and transformed using new creative languages and stylistic codes. It is no coincidence that a cutting-edge brand like Mykita offers a series of aviator models made of Mylon or stainless steel and Renew Acetate, recycled and recyclable materials in line with the Berlin company’s strong eco-sustainable and ethical commitment. This commitment is shared by Undostrial, which uses 100% recycled and recyclable stainless steel for its Springe models featuring a special spring hinge.

Meanwhile, the focus – as always – is on the lightness of the Blackfin titanium worked in very fine 3 mm thicknesses for the Copeland glasses (in the opening photo), whose black/silver version offers tinted photochromic lenses that can also be worn indoors. But it is above all fashion brands that experiment freely with new architectures. Balmain sunglasses are decisively fashionable with bold volumes and combinations, square shapes and high-impact visual details such as the side guards featuring the graphic motif of the monogram repeated as decoration. 

Mykita, Bradley model

Mykita, Bradley model

Mykita, Mylon Alder model

Mykita, Mylon Alder model

Akoni, Skymapper model

Akoni, Skymapper model

Akoni, Eris model

Akoni, Eris model

Lucas de Staël, Zeppelin 13 model

Lucas de Staël, Zeppelin 13 model

Alaïa, mod. AA0067S

Alaïa, mod. AA0067S

Balmain, mod. O.R. BPS-104

Balmain, mod. O.R. BPS-104

Undostrial, mod. SP10 Springe

Undostrial, mod. SP10 Springe

Brunello Cucinelli & Oliver Peoples, Moraldo model

Brunello Cucinelli & Oliver Peoples, Moraldo model

Alaïa also offers side spoilers but made of smooth or textured leather on the pilot model that celebrates a modern concept of femininity defined by creative director Pieter Mulier, including emblematic elements of the brand’s style. And leather, including precious Galuchat leather, is the undeniable star of Lucas de Staël’s glasses, “sculpted” through a special process combining craftsmanship and technology in a unique form of virtuosity.

For another major fashion brand, Brunello Cucinelli, discretion, class and quality are the basic ingredients with which Oliver Peoples has “sewn” timeless glasses, creating perfect harmony with the Umbrian entrepreneur. These include Moraldo, in Made in Japan titanium, with temples decorated with engraved motifs and a double bridge with detail in acetate and leather-effect fabric.

Akoni also transforms a symbol into a decidedly contemporary accessory and customises it while keeping its identity intact and recognisable. It does this with the model called – not by chance – Skymapper, in a combination of titanium and acetate, and Eris, with its innovative co-centred pairing of two titanium frames and perforated side guards that reproduce the logo. And so the journey continues. In the sky or on the earth, it doesn’t matter.  

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