In 1999, the book "No logo" by Naomi Klein was published, a manifesto of a new generation that preferred the intrinsic value and quality of a product to the added value of a brand. 24 whole years have passed and the debate is still open. Logo or no logo? Even for eyewear, there have been ups and downs that have seen the logo disappear, reappear, evolve, sometimes retrieved from the archives to become a constructive detail, decoration, diversion, memoir, an element of recognition and belonging, creating real dependencies among fashion addicts.

A constant presence/absence that over time has abstracted itself and freed itself from stereotypes to live its own life, with a very precise identity and personality. And also focusing on irony and originality, like the two exclusive models by Valentino, created by the creative director of the maison, Pierpaolo Piccioli, in collaboration with Akoni Group and presented at the FW 2023 fashion show "Un Château". In particular, in the metal sunglasses (in the opening photo) with titanium temples, the V-Gold even defines the shape of the lens, boldly imposing the strength of the brand and of that V that is recognisable everywhere. Because it is above all the lenses that now convey the message of the brands. In the true sense of the word. This is certainly not anything new, given that Elio Fiorucci, in the 80s, had already made the famous cherubs fly on the mirrored lenses of his sunglasses…

But, you know, in fashion there are continuous twists and turns. It's a trend that has also seduced luxury brands such as Cartier: its unmistakable Double C Décor motif shines brightly across the lenses of the CT0330S rimless model. Instead, it is the double F of Fendi's Baguette logo that creates a particular graphic effect in the Baguette 25° female model in cat-eye acetate, dedicated to the anniversary of the creation of the legendary Baguette bag, designed in 1997 by Silvia Venturini Fendi. A distinctive sign but not one that is immediately perceptible, except in certain light conditions, the all-over decoration of the lenses therefore does not aim for ostentation but for a sort of sublimation of the brand and its heritage.

An example of this is the minimalist model GV40040U from Givenchy, which is part of the GV Speed collection. In ultra-thin matte black metal, it features the classic "4G" logo motif on the mirrored lenses. And what about the iconic interlocking GG logo by Gucci that characterises the unisex GG1278S sunglasses? Rimless at the top, they come in gilded metal and their vintage look also vaguely recalls reading glasses, if it weren't for that bold purple mirror… Dior goes further, offering the sophisticated sports-inspired DiorClub V1U visor, characterised by the Dior Oblique motif. But the surface of the lenses also lends itself to reproducing, evoking it, a symbol or an element that makes a certain brand recognisable, beyond the logo.

This is exactly the case with Emilio Pucci, whose abstract prints, in addition to his handwritten signature, have become the unmistakable emblem of his timeless style, so much so that that fluid effect, immediately attributable to his name, has also been recreated on the single lens of the EP0209 model. While it is only the serial spiral of the black and white 10 Corso Como logo, designed by the American artist Kris Ruhs over 30 years ago, that transforms the glasses of Eyepetizer into exclusive accessories. Made in a limited edition for the famous Milanese concept store created by Carla Sozzani, they come with a personalised case and packaging. A single version with a geometric frame in thin matte black metal which confirms once again that what matters most is freedom of choice, even when it comes to eyewear. Logo or no logo? It's up to you to decide…