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Gray pride


Ageless beauty

Words Alessandra Albarello

22/05/2024

An increasing number of models over the age of 60 are taking centre stage in advertisements and on fashion catwalks. A social phenomenon that tells us that beauty, charm and style are ageless. And it's not just an issue of inclusion. Because after all, it's better to be imperfect than standardized.

Surely an example for all was Iris Apfel, the recently deceased 100-year-old style icon, whose mantra was always "More is more and less is a bore". And she amply demonstrated this by sporting, throughout her long and fascinating life, eccentric outfits characterised by an overabundance of flashy accessories and huge spectacles, which became an unmistakable trademark of her personality. As they have also become for the brilliant Milanese gallery owner Rossana Orlandi, who in 2015 launched a single model with a slender, austere white frame, shaded lenses and a cleaning cloth by designer Patricia Urquiola. In recent years, society and the catwalks have come to the conclusion that charm is ageless, and so too is beauty, perhaps because people have finally started to attach real value to the passage of time, which transforms us, makes us unique and authentic, and thereby subverts old canons and outdated aesthetic criteria. See, for example, Victoria's Secret, the famous American lingerie brand, which in January 2024 for the first time presented the over-60 model Elisabetta Dessy, a former swimming champion, thus overcoming another recurring prejudice regarding sex appeal, which is usually ascribed only to young people. The consequence of this new wave was the courage to finally show up for who you are, wrinkles and grey or white hair included. A real social phenomenon, which has involved people from various backgrounds, including the film industry, with "grey pride" actresses such as Helen Mirren and Meryl Streep.

The passing of time transforming beauty and giving depth and substance to our lives was the dominant theme of the recent Kaleos advertising campaign, which used models aged over 60 to celebrate its first 10 years. Because men, too, need to break free from the stereotypes of a youthful perfection that has ultimately proved to be nothing more than an aesthetic deception, an ephemeral and unattainable goal. It's better to be free, then. It's better to be imperfect but not standardised. It's better to be yourself. Also in line with this new vision is lool, a Spanish brand that, with its Deco line, inspired by Art Deco and minimalism, offers ultra-lightweight frames (only 8 g!) characterised by screwless hinges, sophisticated PVD finishes and hand-painted details.

In the S/S 2024 campaign dedicated to an intergenerational Breakfast, Gigi Studios also conveys a bold message, suggesting boldness at any age with strong, punchy acetate frames and sunglasses from the Vanguard collection. And if, in the past, lines of clothing and accessories, especially eyewear, were created specifically for the over-60s, this is no longer the case, and everyone can choose according to their own tastes and sensibilities, creating their own style within new, freer and more inclusive parameters. It is no coincidence, therefore, that Jacques Marie Mage (in the opening photo), a luxury brand, proposes its exclusive limited edition eyewear to a broad target group united by a focus on quality, attention to detail and uniqueness, allowing them to be worn by alluring older models. One of the first to break the taboos of age and unleash an eccentric, fun and ironic style even for the most senior women was the eclectic New Zealand designer Karen Walker, to whom Mattel dedicated a Barbie in her image and likeness in 2021, with glasses and grey hair. Not to mention that, in the week of 8 March this year, Helen Mirren became the first Barbie with white hair... By the way, do you know how old the timeless Barbie turned on 9 March? 65. She's over 60, too...  Yet still so irresistible. 

Jacques Marie Mage

Jacques Marie Mage

Rossana Orlandi (Ph. credit Annica Eklund)

Rossana Orlandi (Ph. credit Annica Eklund)

lool

lool

Kaleos

Kaleos

Gigi Studios

Gigi Studios

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