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Trends

Raw


Irregular profiles

Words Alessandra Albarello

05/06/2024

Rough glasses or those with irregular profiles and surfaces. The material asserts itself over the form, surpassing it with an effect that is sometimes seemingly uncontrolled. But decidedly surprising.

In the 1950s, Brutalism incorporated the raw beauty of raw concrete into urban contexts, creating other architectural balances and focusing attention on the material surface rather than the somewhat Spartan form. It is therefore no coincidence that many eyewear brands have been inspired by this movement to validate a discourse on the pure, authentic, and primordial beauty of the material used. An example is the UW16 model by Rigards x Uma Wang (in the opening photo), made from precious buffalo horn naturally of ethical origin. The soul and uniqueness of the material increasingly assert themselves in various fields, from design to fashion, as an added value for a sensory effect that evokes origins and craftsmanship, while also countering an outdated stereotype of perfection.

Rough surfaces therefore traverse the glasses, including the limited edition models from Impuri, a profoundly ethical and sustainable brand founded in 2020 in Serbia by Goran Ilic, a musician and DJ who uses recycled carbon fiber from automotive and aerospace industry waste for his creations. We also find angular, three-dimensional perimeters that animate lines and shapes, as in the capsule collection of 8 models, also in limited edition, created by Pugnale to celebrate its 10th anniversary. Made of matte black acetate, they are embellished with jewel details.

Those who have always devoted special attention to the exploration of new material effects are certainly Kuboraum, who with his Liquid Sky Limited Edition Series has drawn inspiration from the post-punk dystopian cult of the 80s to convey a philosophical idea of fluidity that emerges through an expansion of matter beyond the physical boundaries defined by form. Therefore, going beyond to explore new languages that envision other scenarios, experimenting with unusual aesthetic styles, and demonstrating craftsmanship and absolute mastery of processing techniques. The material, which apparently overflows and escapes all control, becomes alive and sometimes appears to bear on its surface the imprints and gestures of those who worked on it and touched it. Just like the CH0227S sunglasses model by Chloé with sinuous and irregular 3D-effect profiles, in low-impact acetate and bio-based nylon. It is offered in semi-transparent tones and burgundy, among the trendiest colours of the season. Increasingly bold, glasses often tell virtuous and parallel stories interwoven with a constant focus on the environment and sustainability.

Necessary contemporary sensitivities for Junk, whose philosophy is summarised in the concept of "Plastic Rehab," translate into radical choices with the use of Econyl and regenerated acetate for glasses in which creativity always rhymes with responsibility. Once again, the deliberately raw aspect of the material prevails, affirming its absolute presence on the face with significant volumes and thicknesses, with the fluid irregularity of the forms emphasized by sophisticated and precise colour choices. And the Joys model is certainly an example of how irony and surprise are also part of this new intriguing game of looks.

Kuboraum, R4 Liquid Sky mask

Kuboraum, R4 Liquid Sky mask

Impuri, Peggy model

Impuri, Peggy model

Chloé, mod. CH0227S

Chloé, mod. CH0227S

Pugnale, 19 year model

Pugnale, 19 year model

Junk, Joys model

Junk, Joys model

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